Thanks to a kind German stranger also named Jenny, who let me use her panorama function because mine broke, I was able to physically record what I saw:
My favorite corner in the world so far -
On the left, a jagged stone beach with crashing waves breaking into a noisy white foam upon hitting the sharp rock edges.
On the right, a gentle and calm beach with the most natural and untouched sand. There was not a single other tourist here - only a handful of local families, children splashing around in the tame ocean and parents chatting under the mangrove shade with picnics. I love mangroves
Behind me, which you can't see, is an aged white lighthouse, perched on top of and surrounded by rock-islands.
Speaking of changing pace - I found Koh Lanta to have a completely different vibe than Koh Phi Phi. After saying my goodbyes in the morning, I hopped on a ferry to Ko Lanta, an island southeast of Phi Phi. It was a sleepy ride, and I was not patient with locals on the ferries trying to offer me taxis and accommodations.
But the second I set foot on this new island I felt the difference - first off, it was so much bigger, and quieter. There are some touristy stores, but they were very spaced out. Life was slower and quieter here, with no boat men trying to stop you every 2 meters offering rides. Although this also meant you can't find 20 restaurants just down the street from your hostel. What struck me the most, though, was how incredibly nice the locals are here.
I first stopped by my dive shop near the pier (I had signed up to scuba dive the next day, and wanted to check in). Not only did they welcome me in, had me try on all my gear, they also spent a LOT of time helping me figure out the most cost-effective and convenient way to get to my hostel, and around the island. They called around, and even haggled for a cheap tuktuk for me.
The island is very long, and getting around required transportation of some kind. We decided that I would get my own motorbike at the hostel in order to explore the island the rest of the day (I only had one day!)
Man oh man! I was definitely much more confident riding a scooter this time around , and flew through the mountainous road - my favorite kind! With lots of hills, and exciting curves - kept me leaning left and right.
And the most amazing views kept opening up:
Also I stopped here for a bite:
After that was when I reached the national park and found my light house and beaches.
I turned in super early that night - haven't slept well at all the entire trip! (Talk about not actually relaxing :p) AND I got the entire hostel room of 8 beds just to myself! Slept like a baby before the scuba trip the next day!
I was picked up bright and early the next morning along with Keith, a guy from Western Massachusetts. He has been coming yearly to Koh Lanta for decades, always stays at the same bungalow, and uses the same dive shop. He was a swell guy - he was also my diving buddy!
The trip we booked was to the two famous rock coral cliffs called Hin Daeng and Hin Muang. After feeding us a delicious breakfast, the divemasters took us out to the dive site on a 1.5 hr speed boat ride.
One of my favorite parts about diving is the boat ride. The fresh current of wind in your face, the endless ocean, not a worry in the world.
Keith and I stared hungrily at the surrounding as we drove by - distant rock islands, squid boats (which shine strong lights into the water on moonless nights, attracting plankton who then attract squid), and a whole lot of open water.
The dives were sweet. There were lots of beautiful purple and red soft corals, and we saw quite a few moray eels, barracudas, and huge jellyfish. There was a big dead jellyfish that all the other fish were taking huge bite chunks out of - sad sight :(
Sea cucumber feet
On one occasion Keith pointed out a beautiful yellow baby boxfish. It was SO little and cute - I got too excited, my heart started racing and I started needing more air - which meant I was feeling suffocated and very anxious (aka panic attack). I checked our depth and saw that we were 26 meters deep, and freaked out even more. At this points I was taking really deep breaths and still not getting enough - I signaled to our divemaster that something is wrong with my heart rate and breathing, all the while trying not to panic about dying before making it up
This is what the fish looked like - doesn't it just take your breath away? (Courtesy of Google)
Evelyn, our divemaster, took both my hands, and calmly motioned for me to breathe in and out while going up a little shallower. It was magic, and in no time I calmed down and felt better. Thanks Evelyn! But man it was NOT a fun experience.
Anyway. in between the two dive sites they served us fruits, and coconut rice wraped in banana leaves (best ever). We just sat around, chatted, and shared our diving stories.
And on the way back Keith and I sat at the head of the boat, chatting, taking in the limitless ocean, and getting to know each other. I was very sad to have had only 1.5 days in Lanta - it had been my favorite place on this trip! Definitely will be back.
The rest of the day was not so smooth (it was one of those "I want to go home" moments) - the car ferry taking me from Lanta back to Krabi was 2 hours late, so by the time I got to Krabi pier it was already dark. I had planned to go to a (only) boat-accessible beach to meet 2 friends from college, Renee and Katie, but because there was no other way of getting to the beach except by longtail boat, I was the biggest scammer target. They were vicious in trying to clean my wallet.
I won't go into details, but it was dark, and the normally beautiful limestone cliff islands surrounding Railay beach looked so ominous. I did not trust the boat man, and I paid way too much and was not let down the boat when I tried to change my mind and refuse the ride:
"We already bought the gasoline", they said.
"Then use it tomorrow, give me my money back and I will leave", I naively said.
"No, we can't use it tomorrow, we have to use it now"
"That makes NO sense....but how much is it maybe I'll just pay for the gas"
"500 baht." SO much bullshit, not my best travel moment
But I did eventually find Renee, and we had a lovely dinner, and she was so kind to let me stay with her in her cool rustic bungalow overnight.
My travels are coming to an end - Bangkok tomorrow for a couple days, and then back home to NYC!
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